涨姿势:泳衣百年进化史

(CNN)A new London exhibition is looking back on the history of the humble swimsuit.

（CNN）一个伦敦新开的展会回溯了泳衣的历史。

Riviera Style: Resort & Swimwear since 1900, now on at the Fashion and Textile Museum in London, charts the journey from the knee-length swimming dresses of yesteryear to the ubiquitous string bikinis of today through archival garments and images.

里维埃拉风格：1900年代的度假胜地和泳衣款式，现在在伦敦的时装和纺织品博物馆，一系列图表通过服装档案和影像资料揭示了从不久前长及膝盖的泳裙发展到今天遍地都是比基尼泳装的过程。

The rise of the resort

沙滩度假的增多

"The story really starts with the shift from bathing in Victorian times to swimming," says FTM curator D ennis Nothdruft. "There was this great movement toward activity, and particularly women being more acth

这个故事确实是从维多利亚时代的沐浴向游泳转变而开始的，"FTM馆长丹尼斯说,“这是向活力的重大转变，尤其是妇 女变得更有活力时。”

Stripping down for the beach still meant donning long skirts, stockings, and shoes until the 1920s, when fashion designer Coco Chanel's Cote d'Azure escapades convinced fashionable women to stop shunning the sun.

直到1920年，人们因沙滩度假而脱去衣服时，还是会穿着长裙，长筒袜，和鞋子，到1920年，时装设计师可可·香奈儿在蓝色海岸的出格行为说服了时尚女性，不再让自己的身体躲避阳光。

But while the Roaring Twenties have the more scandalous reputation, it wasn't until the 1930's that swimsuits started to look (somewhat) conventionally skimpy, and the two piece made its debut.

但是，在喧嚣的20年代，这还是有些羞涩，直到1930年代，泳衣才开始变得更加紧身，分体式泳衣首次出现。

"You start to see more and more of what we consider contemporary swimsuits," Nothdruft says. "You sta to see cutaway swimsuits — they cut away the sides at the top — and they start adding various revealing elements.••

“你开始看到越来越多的现代意义上的泳装。”丹尼斯说，"你开始看到圆角泳衣了;他们剪掉了泳衣的上部;他们开始加入各种各祥的暴露元素。"

By the 1950s, two piece suits were commonplace. Essentially glorified lingerie, they created the same co veted hourglass figure as the decade's restricting shape wear.

到了1950年代，分体式泳衣已经司空见惯。基本上变成了美化的内衣，他们塑造了与之后几十年的塑形紧身衣一祥的沙漏型身材。

"You start to get the sense that swimsuits aren't just for swimming," he says. "All of a sudden it's about shaping the body and creating a silhouette."

"我们开始创造一种观念——泳衣不只是为了游泳而穿，"他说，"我指的是塑造形体和轮廓。"

The bikini as we know it now made its first appearance in the 1960s, as fashion trends became more youth-oriented, and a more natural silhouette was championed by designers.

1960年代，我们所熟知的比基尼首次出现，并作为时尚潮流越来越年轻化，一个更自然的轮廓也被设计者青睐。

"In the 1950s, teenagers looked like their mothers. By the 1960s, mothers wanted to look like their daughters," Nothdruft says.

丹尼斯说，"在1950年代，青少年的穿着很像她们的母亲。到了1960年代，母亲们则开始学习她们女儿的穿着。"

Textile innovation

纺织品的创新

While the modesty of the post-Victorian swimming outfits is perhaps the most conspicuous difference between then and now, the change in materials is just as stark.

在庄重的维多利亚时代，泳装与现在显著不同，材质的改变非常明显。

"It's the story of innovation," Nothdruft says. "It really relates to finding materials that respond to the requirements: fitting and getting wet."

"这是一个创新的故事，"丹尼斯说，"指的是寻找能够适应需求的材料：合身与湿身。"

Predating modern elastic, early swimsuits were made from knitted cotton and wools that grew heavy and hung uncomfortably when wet.

比现代的弹性布料更早，早期泳衣由针织棉和针织毛制成，在湿身时会变得非常沉重和不舒适。

This would continue on through the 1930s, when elastic yarns -- cottons and wools wrapped with elastic threads -- would take over, only to be usurped by stretch fabrics in the 1950s. (Lycra wouldn't become ubiquitous until the 1980s.)

这种情况从1930年代开始，当时的弹性丝——棉花和羊毛被弹性线包裹——占统治地位，但最终被松紧织物取代。（莱卡弹性布料直到1980年代才普遍使用。）

Modern swimwear landmarks, like the Speedo LZR Racer Suit that was originally banned from the Olympics for giving athletes and unfair advantage, suggest a recent shift from the merely practical to the performance-enhancing.

现代泳衣品牌，比如鲨鱼皮，最初在奥运会上是被禁止的，因为它们会让选手获得不公平的优势，这表明这些改变不仅仅让它更舒适，也让它更有实际效用。

"What we're showing are some really fantastic developments in swimwear," says Nothdruft. "There are all sorts of innovations in tech and fabric and cut and manipulation."

"我们展示的是有关泳衣的一些真正了不起的发展，"丹尼斯说，"这些都是在技术上，材质上，减少布料上，和制造工艺上的创新。"

Does this mean that, from a fashion standpoint, the swimsuit has been taken as far as it can go? It's a possibility.

这意味着，从时尚的角度，泳衣已经达到了它能达到的顶峰了吗？这是可能的。

"It's hard to say what we'll be doing in the future ... I think we've covered everything," he says. "We'll have to start wearing full dresses when we're swimming again. Stockings and shoes..."

"很难说我们未来还会做些什么。我认为我们已经做了所有能做的事情，"他说，"我们将不得不再次穿着盛装去游泳。再加上长筒袜和鞋子。"